Two marcasite convertable dress clip brooches c1940
Price: £35
These are two complimentary dress clips or brooches that have a distinctive designs. They are set with marcasite stones and can be either mounted as a brooch or used separately as dress clips.
Taxco charm bracelet, makers mark Castelan, 1950s
Price: £85
This is a fun bracelet comprising a heavy curb chain mounted with charms that have a Mexican motif. It bears the marks 'Castelan' , Eagle mark 15, '925' 'Sterling'.
Floating Flower jade pendant on bead necklace
Price: £175
This is a beautiful constructed necklace comprising a large very detailed Floating Flower jade carving of a waterfall with mountains and trees. There is also a temple and a boat with two figures. The reverse also has a very detailed of a landscape. This is a wonderful example of Chinese carving. It is strung together with green and white jade beads ending in a silver gilt Chinese filigree clasp. The bale is 9K gold.
Indian silver repousse cuff bracelet, c1920
Price: £85
This is a beautiful cuff bracelet which has very fine repousse work with floral designs and millegrain patterning. The large central panel has two bands of delicately rendered stylised scrolling foliage on a textured ground edged with a border of repeating stylised shells and detailed beading work and is flanked by two similar smaller panels at the sides. The piece is unmarked but is most likely '925' grade as was the tradition with Indian silver at this time.
Estruscan style necklace in the manner of Lalaounis c1990
Price: £75
This is a wonderful quality necklace comprising two tiers of Etruscan design elements and numerous acorn form drops. This is made to emulate the designs of Lalaounis a very popular jewellery designer and goldsmith who worked in Greece until his death in 2013. The origin of this necklace is unknown but it is amazing quality and is drenched in buttery gold plating.
Striking continental silver modernist bracelet c1960
Price: £55
This a very beautiful and detailed bracelet comprising panels with organic shapes in front of coral like designs. It is marked Sterling Foreign 925. It seems that it should be attributed to a particular jewellery designer as it is so unique and high quality.
Victorian enamel buckle c1900
Price: £45
This is a lovely example of these buckles in a scrollwork design with bright enameling in turquoise and pinks. It is brass.
Paris tourist novelty bracelet c1970
Price: £15
This is a fun bracelet in a tarnished silver finish. It depicts Parisian landmarks and the city's coat of arms. They have a 3D effect which is interesting.
Victorian set of matched Scottish agate beads c. 1880
Price: £450
These are an incredibly rare set of large graduated matching Scottish agate beads restrung with a 9k gold clasp and clear spacer beads. Matched sets like this come at quite a premium and can fetch eye watering prices. It is a very fine example of beads like this.
A very finely carved white pendent on traditional silk cord, Modern
Price: £25
This is a lovely piece of white jade that has been carved with a typical dragon motif and Chinese characters. It is strung onto a very well designed silk cord. This is quite a modest item and it is almost surely treated in some way.
Show stopping suite of necklace and earrings c1960
Price: £85
This is a dramatic necklace comprising five strands of aurora borealis glass beads with the matching clip earrings. The beads are graduating and are facetted with gold tone spacer beads. The clasp is original in a matching design. The earrings are clusters of the same beads and the clips are quite sturdy.
Taxco bracelet with Aztec mask motif, 1940s
Price: £65
This is very unusual bracelet comprising stations of heavy silver masks connected with five silver rods. It is marked 'Made in Mexico' and 'Silver' and would have been made for export to the USA.
Art Deco necklace with French Jet and paste stations
Price: £45
This is a beautiful and un unusual long necklace comprising stations of long French Jet bugle beads and paste spheres. It also features some interesting cracked crystal effect glass beads and clear glass beads.
Islamic silver choker necklace 1920s
Price: £120
This is a very unusual choker length necklace featuring three heavy strands of woven silver held together with floral motif findings. The necklace has a screw clasp that has birds and mill grain work.
Victorian style copper bracelet with buckle detail 1950s
Price: £20
This is a lovely collectible piece of Victorian style copper jewellery. This would have had a gold wash on it originally. It has a bold buckle detail and a hammered sunflower design. It is marked "Exquisite".
Fun group of two porcelain brooches with paid of small earrings 1960s
Price: £15
This is a group of two brooches with matching earrings. All have inset porcelain plaques with a floral motif. The brooch with the purple flowers seems to have a monogram signature.
Celtic Style Pewter Brooch in the form of a Panthers Head, C20th
Price: £10
A pewter brooch in the form of a Panther's head, the mouth holding a horseshoe like ring inset with diamante stones, the design in a Celtic style and perhaps intended to represent a door knocker. There are no markings to this piece and its origin and dating are difficult to determine. Perhaps it can be seen to relate to Arts and Crafts pieces of the early C20th and manufacture in the South West of England (compare the Celtic Style brooch, Lot 13 in this sale) is perhaps a possibility.
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Silver Monogram Celtic Style Brooch Hallmarked 1878/1879
Price: £45
A Silver Celtic Style Brooch, the design with interlacing strands in a variety of surface textures, three of which seem to represent the letters 'S' 'S' 'E', hallmarked to the reverse with the stamps (from right to left) lion (fitness mark), anchor, (Birmingham Assay Office mark), 'd' (Date letter for Birmingham 1878 to 1879), 'EU' (Sponsors mark - the firm which submitted the item to the assay office - for Edwin Umfreville who traded at 119 Jermyn Street, St James's, London and offered items with bespoke monograms).
An advert for Edwin Umfreville appeared in 'The Bazaar, The Exchange and Mart - 19th April 1879' where one of his pieces is described. "Like all the “ E. U." jewellery that we have seen, the workmanship is first-class, and the design most tasteful."
Two mounted Wedgwood blue jasperware Cameo Brooches, C19th, C20th
Price: £10
Two mounted Wedgwood blue jasperware Cameo Brooches with neo classical style figures, each of circular form typically decorated with a figure in raised white relief on a light blue ground, the first with a cherub and marked 'Wedgwood Made In England' to the reverse with the pattern number '65' and the second with a standing figure holding a club and possibly intended to depict Heracles and marked 'Wedgwood' to the reverse with a small cross. The mounting of the first is marked silver but the second is unmarked and may perhaps be white metal. The format of the mark on the 'cherub' brooch indicates a C20th dating probably in the first half, whereas the mark on the 'Heracles' brooch suggests a C19th dating which may explain the slight discolouration to the figure. The differing style of the mounts (milled edge/rope twist) may perhaps conform with this.
PLEASE NOTE THAT THERE IS FREE UK SHIPPING ON THIS ITEM. For international buyers the shipping cost will be reduced by the UK shipping cost, so don't worry if you are outside the UK, you still receive this benefit!
A Celtic or Pictish Brooch decorated with Horses, St Justin of Cornwall, circa 1980
Price: £10
A circular pewter Brooch, the decoration based on a Pictish horse engraving found on a stone in Inverurie. The three horses are shown embedded in a nest of classic Celtic lines and knots. This brooch was made by the firm St.Justin of Cornwall with Cornish Pewter. Their mark can be seen to the reverse.
Inverurie is a town in Scotland where Pictish carved stones are found in the graveyard dating from the 7th Century. The Picts were a tribe of peoples living in the East and North of Scotland. Little is known of their origins but they were called 'Picts' by the Romans because of their painted and tattooed bodies. The Inverurie horse is the inspiration for this brooch. The actual design of the three horses was created by George Bain (1881-1968) the Scottish artist and teacher, famous for chronicling Celtic Art.
St Justin of Cornwall is well known for the production of 'craft' pieces in a variety of forms and materials. This piece probably dates to the 1980s and certainly cannot be found in their current catalogue.
PLEASE NOTE THAT THERE IS FREE UK SHIPPING ON THIS ITEM. For international buyers the shipping cost will be reduced by the UK shipping cost, so don't worry if you are outside the UK, you still receive this benefit!
Two lacquer bird brooches 1980s
Price: £15
This is a fun set of two brooches in an unusual lacquer design.
Two long infinity strands of cultured pearls
Price: £45
This is a stunning pair of two 160 cm strands of cultured pears that have been dyed soft metallic tones of green, grey, peach, pink and gold. This makes quite a statement when worn together as multiple strands.
Art Deco Islamic silver bracelet with inset stones
Price: £195
This is a very striking bracelet that features a central plaque with inset turquoise, amethyst and carnelian stones. The setting has fine repousse stars and teardrop design with filigree work. The band is very wide and is comprised of a very fine woven silver. The clasp mirrors the plaque motif and has a bolt fitment.
Beautiful paste evening necklace c1940
Price: £25
This is a wonderful necklace comprising pink and clear glass stones with a large central pendant with a very unusual floral crown design. There are stones all the way around this necklace set in leaf settings.
Strand of Chinese ceramic beads c1950
Price: £25
This is a lovely necklace comprising 19 barrel shaped ceramic beads with vulcanite spacer beads. The ceramic beads are chinese porcelain with Famille Rose style decoration. This necklace has not clasp but will fit over the head.
Strand of large Peking glass beads c1920
Price: £25
This is a striking string of beads that are Peking glass. Peking glass was created as a more economical alternative to jade and is a favorite stone for beads and and costume jewellery from the 1920s. With barrel clasp.
Pair of silver fobs adapted as earrings, Birmingham 1904 & 1905
Price: £75
This is a wonderful way to upcycle two watchain fobs. These fobs were earned by the same person for ;perfect attendance by the Kent Education Commitee. Although they are undated the silver marks indicate the years 1904 and 1905. These have very fine quality siliver work. It bears the coat of arms for the KEC. These have been set on silver earring hooks.
Silver cuff bracelet set with Scottish banded carnelian stone, Birmingham 1975
Price: £85
This is a very striking bracelet set with a very large Scottish.banded canelian stone. The setting is a very simple and elegant three band design. Bears full silver marks for Birmingham 1975. The makers mark is AP.
Indian tribal necklace, 19th century
Price: £175
This is a very unusual and rare tribal necklace that is from India, most likely from the Rajasthan region. It features a large silver disc with a free form design, This is strung with a necklace that has thousands of garnet beads. The pendant is marked 925 which indicates that it was exported to the west.
Long lapis lazuli bead necklace c1980
Price: £30
This is very elegant necklace that features different shaped stone beads of Lapis Lazuli. These beads are very high quality with excellent colour. They are flat pebble shaped, together with square and round beads. They are connected by gold fittings with a toggle clasp.
Outstanding Art Deco necklace with French jet and rock crystal beads c1920
Price: £175
This is a stunning and rare necklace comprising French jet glass beads combinded with facetted rock crystal beads. There are two stations that are tear drop shaped that have both French jet and crystal elements, this is very typical of the Art Deco period in jewellery. This necklace has been recenlty restrung to ensure that it is strong.
Necklace with massive Agate Disc strung set with facetted ruby beads, India, c1940
Price: £325
This is a very substantial and heavy necklace that features a very large banded agate stone mounted in silver and set with facetted rubies. The necklace is strung with very large facetted ruby beads that are approximatelyl 12 mm wide. This really is a one off. It is from India and may have been a commissioned piece. It has been restrung recently on metal cord with a new clasp so is quite strong. The ruby beads are particularly interesting and hard to find in this size.
Diamond cut millegrain silver bracelet, 20th century
Price: £45
This is a very intricately designed bracelet comprising numerous diamond cut spheres that have been individually connected. This is most likely Italian. It is marked 925.
Taxco brooch with abalone shell c1950
Price: £20
This is a very striking brooch comprising a central abalone stone surrounded by leaves made of crushed lapis. It is marked on reverse Taxco with an illegible "eagle" mark. It also has bail so could be used as a pendant.
Large Islamic silver necklace with heart shaped box c1920
Price: £85
This is a very large statement necklace comprising a detailed pendant that is a tubular piece set with malachites stones with handing drops. There is a very large hard shaped pendant attached that is a box with a red fabric interior. This may have some religious signficance such as a prayer box. This is set with beautiful agate stone that is also heart shaped. The pandant has filigree work on both the pieces of the pendant. It comes with its original herringbone style chain. This does not appear to be silver like the pendant. The pendant is 800 silver so a slightly lower grade fo 925 or sterling silver.
Mexican silver dolphin bangle bracelet c1990
Price: £65
This bracelet has a fun depiction of a dolphin in the ocean with the sun and waves. It is marked Mexico 925.
Vulcanite long necklace with Maltese cross and fob c1880
Price: £195
This is the holy grail of Vulcanite necklace due to the length and it also has two integrated Vulcanite pendants a Maltese cross and a fob that may have been intended to be engraved. The links are round and there are further links at the end giving it a lariat style.
ABOUT VULCANITE
Exciting scientific and technological advances punctuated the nineteenth century. Growth and development with regard to jewelry-making techniques and new and innovative jewelry materials were an important part of these creative endeavors. Combining imitation gems with various imitation jewelry materials had already been en vogue since the early Eighteenth century and viable replacements for faux non-metallic jewelry materials were chiefly derived from plastics and rubber.
Uncured rubber is somewhat brittle and does not have the stamina to hold up over the long term necessary to be viable for jewelry use. It was not until Charles Goodyear patented the vulcanization process in America in 1844 and Thomas Hancock did the same in England, that jewelry production with a rubber composition was possible. Vulcanization is a high-heat process that adds sulfur to the mix and renders the result more durable than rubber or plastic alone. Both gentlemen exhibited their achievements at the Great Exhibition, displaying molds of items intended to substitute for the very popular, but exceedingly brittle jet.
One of the main purveyors of vulcanite jewellery was the Britannia Rubber and Kamptulicon Company, set up in 1854 at Cannon Street in the City, with the works in the East End of London at Bow Common, “for the purpose of manufacturing in England articles invented by Mr. Goodyear.” From 1866, they placed advertisements in The Times for ” Indiarubber chaines Benoiton, wholesale and export only,” offering a full range of industrial, household and ornamental goods including “Imitation Jet (India Rubber): Albert chains, Victoria chains, long chains, Latin, Greek, Maltese and Dagmar crosses, brooches, bracelets, earrings, waist-clasps, charms and trinkets, gauntlets and armlets, fancy black combs, and dressing combs,” assuring their customers that these items had the “the beauty of polish and deepness of colour of jet, without its dangerous quality of brittleness…You may dash a bracelet or chain of this material to the ground without injuring it.”
Sources:
Lang Antiques (www.langantiques.com)
Gere, Charlotte and Rudoe, Judy. Jewellery in the Age of Queen Victoria: A Mirror to the World: London, The British Museum Press, 2010.
Victorian vulcanite anchor chain necklace with carved jet pendant c1880
Price: £195
This is quite a rare necklace as due to the type of link combined with the long length of the necklace. The links are a large anchor design combined with the finely carved jet pendant.
ABOUT VULCANITE
Exciting scientific and technological advances punctuated the nineteenth century. Growth and development with regard to jewelry-making techniques and new and innovative jewelry materials were an important part of these creative endeavors. Combining imitation gems with various imitation jewelry materials had already been en vogue since the early Eighteenth century and viable replacements for faux non-metallic jewelry materials were chiefly derived from plastics and rubber.
Uncured rubber is somewhat brittle and does not have the stamina to hold up over the long term necessary to be viable for jewelry use. It was not until Charles Goodyear patented the vulcanization process in America in 1844 and Thomas Hancock did the same in England, that jewelry production with a rubber composition was possible. Vulcanization is a high-heat process that adds sulfur to the mix and renders the result more durable than rubber or plastic alone. Both gentlemen exhibited their achievements at the Great Exhibition, displaying molds of items intended to substitute for the very popular, but exceedingly brittle jet.
One of the main purveyors of vulcanite jewellery was the Britannia Rubber and Kamptulicon Company, set up in 1854 at Cannon Street in the City, with the works in the East End of London at Bow Common, “for the purpose of manufacturing in England articles invented by Mr. Goodyear.” From 1866, they placed advertisements in The Times for ” Indiarubber chaines Benoiton, wholesale and export only,” offering a full range of industrial, household and ornamental goods including “Imitation Jet (India Rubber): Albert chains, Victoria chains, long chains, Latin, Greek, Maltese and Dagmar crosses, brooches, bracelets, earrings, waist-clasps, charms and trinkets, gauntlets and armlets, fancy black combs, and dressing combs,” assuring their customers that these items had the “the beauty of polish and deepness of colour of jet, without its dangerous quality of brittleness…You may dash a bracelet or chain of this material to the ground without injuring it.”1
Sources:
Lang Antiques (www.langantiques.com)
Gere, Charlotte and Rudoe, Judy. Jewellery in the Age of Queen Victoria: A Mirror to the World: London, The British Museum Press, 2010.
Suite of Taxco - necklace, bracelet and earrings c1960
Price: £475
This is an outstanding suite of jewellery made in the Taxco silver district in Mexico. It comprises graduating fine links of turquoise and silver. Both the necklace and bracelet of a fluidity that shows the beautiful quality of this jewellery. It bears the Birmingham assay import mark and initials LR presumably for the company that imported it to the UK. It also is marked 925. There are no Mexican hallmarks although the origin of these pieces is not in doubt. The necklace and bracelet have the signature box clasp and each is fitted with a safety chain.
Pair of large hoop earrings with stone drops
Price: £45
This is a pair of statement earrings comprising to large silver hoop that have a chalcedony and a carnelian drop. The pendants were originally for necklaces and they have been repurposed here. Marked 925.
Victorian Silver Mounted Banded Agate Brooch, late C19th
Price: £100
An oval brooch formed from banded agate, the brown surface with amber and mustard colour striations, mounted in silver with a bar clasp to the reverse, the rounded border with four engraved collar devices. Found in a wide variety of locations, agate, a form of chalcedony with a wide variety of banding effects, has been used for jewellery from the earliest of times and was extremely popular in the late nineteenth century. The source here is probably Scotland which may imply that the mount is Scottish too, which would certainly not be inconsistent with its style but there is no firm proof of this.
Green Chalcedony silver mounted brooch with marcasite stones, 1940s
Price: £45
This is a silver mounted brooch, the central oval green chalcedony or chrysoprase stone bordered with an elaborate rounded hexagonal frame, the stylised flowers with scrolling foliage and a milled border, all set with marcasite stones, a bar clasp to the reverse and an engraved mark ‘925’ for silver. Chrysoprase is a variety of chalcedony distinguished by its shades of green and has been used for jewellery since antiquity. Maracsite, a brittle, metallic, semi-precious stone is also often used in jewellery and sometimes known as ‘white iron pyrite’ or more colloquially ‘fool's gold’. Its use here, combined with the elaborate design of the mount, suggests a dating to the 1940s
Edwardian rolled gold and white agate brooch, c1910
Price: £45
An attractive brooch combining an oval piece of cloudy white agate with red inclusions mounted in a rolled gold rope twist frame with stylised floral petals decorated in an abstract design. The reverse has a bar clasp and is fitted with a guard chain implying that the wearer was intended to take some care of this elegant accessory. The combination of the milky white stone with its coloured detail and the gold coloured surround is particularly appealing and the design of the mount suggests a dating to the early 1900s.
Large silver fancy link Bracelet, modern
Price: £50
This is an unusual variation on the chainmail bracelet form where a triple series of interlocking oval links are combined with small rolled wire beads, quite a demand on the silversmith’s skills. The ends terminate in a ball and clasp fastening and the clasp is marked ‘925’ with a double oval. The style suggests a late twentieth century dating with perhaps English craftsmanship.
Victorian rolled gold and black and white agate Brooch, English c1920
Price: £50
An attractive brooch in which an agate stone of rounded rectangular octagonal form, the grey surface with clearly defined striations in grisaille and white, is framed by an elaborate rolled gold mount with a rococo style border, scrolling milled cord joining two stylised leaf shape panels at each end with round balls in gold tones in between, the bottom with a gold chain loop and a hanging drop and the reverse with a bar clasp. As with the other rolled gold and agate brooch in this sale, the design of the mount suggests the 1920s
Edwardian silver fleur-de-lis collar necklace circa 1910
Price: £85
The ‘fleur-de-lis’, a stylised form of lily symbolising fertility and purity, has been used as decorative motif for centuries and is particularly associated with the French royal family. It is more normally found as a single pendant necklace but the Victorians produced various collar necklaces in silver with the motif. These tend to be slightly heavier in construction than the example here suggesting a slightly later dating probably to the Edwardian era and most likely English manufacture. The finely cast silver fleur-de-lis leaves are joined by links and terminate in a spring ring closure presenting a delicate accessory, perhaps for a young lady.
Please note that the necklace is not marked for silver and has not been tested.
Monochrome tubular bead necklace, Modern
Price: £95
This is a rather fabulous necklace that feature very large tubular beads that are half crystal and half onyx. They ae paired with smaller crystal beads with black inclusions. The large beads adre very unusual. It has a silver clasp.
Triple strand of amber Bakelite beads, British 1930s
Price: £750
This is an imposing three strand necklace comprised of assembled graduated marble effect butterscotch amber beads joined at the head with a silver clasp. The beads have recently been restrung with wire to make the whole more robust and safer to wear. The three strands interlock perfectly and the selection of beads has been carefully chosen in respect of colouring and size to produce a striking ensemble which is bound to impress.
Chinese agate carving with onyx beads, 20th century
Price: £35
This necklace is a lovely design with a large carved banded agate carving. It is paired with onyx beads and agate beads. It is elegant and undestated due to the monochrome palette but definitely makes a statement.
Butler and Wilson Skull Necklace, boxed, modern
Price: £125
There is certainly a hint of the macabre in this ‘halloween’ necklace made by the well known British firm, Butler and Wilson. Founded by Nicky Butler and Simon Wilson in 1969 and initially trading from the once famous Antiquarius antiques market in Chelsea, the company is best-known for its crystal costume jewellery and their pieces have been worn by celebrities and even members of the Royal Family. The firm still trades today and their current range does include a number of skull design pieces but this necklace is around 15 years old. Silver metal and crystals are used to create five skull heads, the largest acting as a pendant with five skull drops. These are linked by a chain which terminates in a spring closure which has a circular medallion embossed with the firm’s name. The necklace comes with its original box which remains in excellent condition. Not perhaps to everyone’s taste but certainly a statement accessory!
Mexican Silver Bolo Tie with Aztec mask Head, Taxco, c1950
Price: £125
The word ‘bolo’ derives from ‘boleadora’, an Argentine or Uruguayan lariat or lasso and is used to describe this semi formal type of neckwear in which a cord is held together by a medallion of some sort so that it can be draped around the neck. Mexican silversmiths working at Taxco, the artistic centre of Mexican silver production, produced versions of the bolo in which the medallion is in the form of a hardstone mask head set in silver. In common with many, this piece has an aventurine hardstone face in the form of an Aztec mask framed by an elaborate silver headdress. Through this runs a black cord with silver tips at each end. The mask is stamped at the back ‘925’ ‘TAXCO’ ‘Cheo’ ‘MEXICO’ with an eagle mark 185 at the top left. Dating is most likely to the 1950s. The bolo was regarded as semi formal wear for a man but can equally, or even better, serve a decorative piece of neckwear for a lady with a distinct hint of South American style.
Mexican Silver Bracelet with Aztec Designs, Taxco, 1950s
Price: £65
This is a fine example of a ‘classic’ bracelet design produced by the Mexican silversmiths working at Taxco, the artistic centre of Mexican silver production. The bracelet comprises four curved rectangles of silver joined with hinges and terminating in a square push clap. When assembled the pieces form a circular bracelet which sits snugly on the wrist. Each piece has an engraved design employing Aztec motifs, so often a source for decoration on Taxco jewellery, key pattern between a triangular and a stylised floral motif on a ground etched to imitate stone. The square clasp is stamped at the back with a diamond tablet with the characters ‘GURDO925’‘FP’ and an eagle mark 4. Dating is most likely to the 1950s. FP is the Taxco silversmith who would have been active in the 1940s and 50s based on this eagle mark.
Bakelite Ivorine Mourning Brooch, British c1930
Price: £25
This is a brooch formed from bakelite intended to mimic ivory with its off white colouring. It shows a hand holding a rose and the slightly antique style reflects the fact that this was originally a Victorian design, intended to be a mourning brooch, the material of which would have been ivory (see image 4 for examples in the British Museum). Developed in New York in 1907 and patented two years later bakelite was the first plastic made from synthetic components. By the 1920s it became a popular material for jewellery and pieces were produced for some years thereafter. Dating here is probably to the 1930s or 1940s.
Victorian Rolled Gold Necklace with Pendants, late C19th
Price: £45
This is an interesting necklace made from rolled gold (in which a thin layer of gold is applied to a baser metal) and comprising a linked chain from which are suspended a facetted rose de france amethyst bead in the shape of a heart, a ‘lucky bean’, a framed portrait medallion and a miniature whistle (that works!). The choice of the pendant ‘charms’ is not wholly clear. While the heart has an obvious meaning and the bean shape denotes good fortune (during the Victorian and Edwardian eras, beans washed up on the seashore which then went on to germinate were regarded as infused with good luck), both of which might well been associated with the young lady whose portrait photo can be seen, the significance of the whistle is not certain and was perhaps only known to the wearer. A piece of evocative nostalgia then for collectors of Victorian decorative jewellery.
Russian Enamel Brooch, probably Rostov Finift, mid C20th
Price: £20
This delicate brooch with its elaborate filigree work has a circular painted enamel plaque painted in greens, pinks, light brown and yellow with scrolling lotus flowers and surrounded by fine silver decoration, with scrolling rope twist strands and slender milled ribbons inset with beads. The style and composition, combining enamel and silver work, is typical of the Russian maker ‘Rostov Finift’ (‘finift’ comes from the Greek ‘fingitis’ which means ‘gleaming’) many of whose pieces can be found on the market today. The art of painting on enamel was first developed in Rostov Veliky (125 miles northwest of Moscow) in the 18th century and continued thereafter with pieces of jewellery, made by Rostov Finift and in which enamels are surrounded by elaborate filigree work, appearing in quantity after the second World War. The pieces are not signed and attribution is mainly speculative but this brooch has much in common with other pieces believed to have been made by the same factory.
Silver Medal or Watch Fob dated 1923, B.P.C.G.S.
Price: £35
A small piece of history here which will need some unravelling. Suspended on a piece of blue ribbon from a silver bar pin marked ‘1923’ is an oval silver medal or watch fob, decorated to the front with two bands of laurel leaves, geometric shapes in an art deco style and a central gilt coloured shield with the engraved letters B.P.C.G.S. The reverse is plain with the engraved wording ‘SENIOR 1ST’ ‘APPARATUS’ ‘LMILES’ and hall marks for 1923 with the maker’s mark ‘JD&CO’, standing for Joseph Daffern & Co, silversmiths at Hatton Garden from 1908 to 1931 and producers of commemorative medals and watch fobs. ‘Apparatus’ is the Latin word used in English to denote equipment or organisation but may have had a special meaning for whatever body is indicated by the acronym on the front. We may never know but L MILES was clearly a successful and deserving recipient!
Vintage Hobe 14k gold plated sterling silver bracelet, 1940s
Price: £150
A striking bracelet from the well known makers of costume jewellery, Hobe et cie, the square silver openwork linked plaques mounted with elaborately cast gold vermeil flowers with a square clasp and a guard chain, the clasp marked at the back ‘Hobé ‘ ‘1/20 TH 14K ON’ ‘STERLING’ ‘DESIGN PAT’D’.
Hobe was founded in 1887 by the French goldsmith Jacques Hobe as makers of fine jewellery. The costume jewellery division, Hobe Cie, was added 40 years later by his son, William Hobe, who brought the firm to America in 1927 and was commissioned by Flo Ziegfeld to design and manufacture jewellery for his Ziegfeld Follies costumes. By repute this is the origin of the expression costume jewellery. Production continued from the 1930s to the 1990s although there are a few later reproductions. While all their pieces were marked, dating is sometimes difficult but the floral design sterling silver pieces, one of their most collectible ranges now, date to the 1930s and 1940s and this bracelet, with the addition of the gold vermeil detail probably belongs to the latter period of this group. Its opulent and florid design is typical of Hobe’s work making it a stylish addition to a collection of their pieces. Other examples of their work can be seen elsewhere on this site and in this sale.
Vintage Chinese Cloisonne Bead Necklace, mid C20th
Price: £55
Cloisonne enamelling, a technique in which glass derived enamels are set on a metal ground and separated with fine wire divisions (the ‘cloisons’), is normally associated with solid forms such as vases and dishes but is employed here to create a series of thirty six similarly sized multicoloured beads in which irregularly shaped green, pink and red panels are separated by fine gold wire and laid on a gilt metal ground. These are linked with knotted cord and joined at the end by a gilt metal clasp and hook with embossed decoration of birds on a branch. The skill of the craftsmanship is obvious and produces a piece of decorative opulence. The work is Chinese and similar pieces are dated to the 1960s which seems reasonable here.
LOT 1
Indian silver onyx and carnelian pendant necklace/brooch, 2006
Estimate: £70 – 100
5d 7h 33m
£36.00
LOT 3
Victorian style Bracelet in Mother of Pearl and Silver, modern
Estimate: £60 – 80
5d 7h 37m
£0.00
